what else?
absorbed some courage and paddled out to the back of the lineup yesterday, figured the expert surfers know how to turn and they won't hit me. i rented a smaller board and did much better. the exhilaration of spotting a wave and watching it slowly build, waikiki style, it surges upon you , the tail lifts, the board jumps forward and starts gliding. there's no other moment on earth and really, nothing else matters. it's sooo zen.
i'm still knee riding too long and need to pop up faster but arms are still saying wtf? by the time they are ready i'll be on mainland hehehehe. that's ok my love of surfing is going nowhere
i am devising a plan to dye and work akai sept thru april and work as a nurse at a temp agency late apr thru august.
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